The Journey

From Sydney via Dubai to New Delhi...our trip had begun - November 2010. We caught a train to Ludhiana so we could have a few days warm up before heading north into the foothills of the Himalaya. A Hindu wedding experience in Ludhiana, followed by a warm invitation to stay with a family in Chandigarh and then being welcomed with open arms into a tranquil resort in Kasauli set us off to a great start. (all within the first few weeks). The peddling was fantastic - through the scenery of Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand before entering into Nepal via the western Terai and up to Pokhara. By the end of our peddling we were on the eastern end of the Himalaya in North Eastern India - cycling through Assam to Guwahati.

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From Siliguri we cycled north to Darjeeling and up into Sikkim. The scenery and forest was amazing and as we had previously experienced, on the other side of India and in Nepal, the people were very friendly. Once again the culture had quite a few variations to other states within India we had already visited. I think we covered some of the steepest climbs within Sikkim on our entire peddling journey. Refer to April/May 2011 within the blog for more about Sikkim and Assam.


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The monsoon season was fast approaching and we had basically run out of time. After a wonderful 3 week jeep tour into Nagaland and Arunachal Pradesh we packed up our bicycles and caught the train from Guwahati, west to Siliguri and south to Kolkata before flying home.


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Street stream (Friday 17 June 2011)

Great night, so tired and the sound of rain muting other noises. Breakfast in at Bodhi Tree which is quite good. Heavy rain achieving the odd drip through the Garden cafes tiled roof. The ambience is great and quite relaxed. Meet up with an English couple about to head up to Darjeeling. They mention that following extended travel through Russia and Asia they had their laptop stolen in Perth when their friends apartment was broken into. Read in the Hindustan Times that 48hrs of rain is expected thanks to a depression that has developed over the Bay of Bengal.

Out into the weather where not only is the rain heavy but the wind through the streets is also quite strong. Start the walk to the junction with the main road but encounter a stream of water through which the odd passing car is causing waves. Backtrack and try another street but similarly covered in knee deep water. Not against water but it is the range of potential floaties that brings second thoughts. Decide that already wet from the water wind so might as well continue on, wading through the water and making the junction. Passing teenage boys as excited as children at Christmas with the weather change from the heat leading up to the start of the monsoon.

Start down the next major road with intentions of getting a feel for the suburb but the wind combined with the continuing heavy downpour is making the attempt unpleasant. Love adventure when I seek it, but this is no fun. Decide to take a break and have lunch at the Khan Sudha, recommended by the English guys this morning. Great food, especially the Veg Hydrabadi, Paneer Butter Masala and naan. Unfortunately power out so no air-conditioning and no windows. Dripping from sweat instead of rain by the time we left.

Retreat back to the hotel where we ate cookies whilst watching movies on cable. Not perfect choice when touring but given the continuing downpour one that we are both happy to have made.

Note: turns out from the Hindustan times 18 June 154.1ml fell till Friday evening. Flights were rerouted, some rail services were blocked due to debris. Also landslip in Kurseong killed 4 people.

Portage (Thursday 16 June 2011)

Off to the train station, not without a little intrepidation regarding checked in luggage. Once again early but not the three hours requested by Guwahati. At the station porter assistance with the Bob bag to the Cloak room. 50rup. Told not to checkin the bike bags as they are under weight and instead carry them on to the train ourselves, placing them in either the Brake van or the carriage in which we have our allocated seats. Uncertain of whether impacted upon by our last dealing or just not interested. We decide to carry the bikes onto the carriage rather than placing them into the Brake van as not certain whether secured or not.

The staff are also uncertain which platform the Kanchenjunga Express is going to pull into, and identify that they will not know until 10 mins from arrival. Fine, unless lugging bike bags up and over pedestrian bridges. So we checked what Platform it normally pulled into. Platform 2. Great, grab another porter and relocate again. 50rup. Take up position, have an hour and a half to wait but absolutely dripping with sweat so wander a little away from the bags to the nearest platform fans. Normally identifiable by a pool of people sitting below.

People wandering on and off the train currently at the platform so uncertain just when it is going to move off. Notice that a lot of people are taking up position on the pedestrian bridge rather than committing to a platform. A couple of platform wanderers as we wait. Ranging from little kids, a few dressed a few not, to older people. As the minutes tick away still waiting until almost arrival time when the shriek of the train horn finally signals it is leaving. Unfortunately the train and it's occupants had left a few presents on the tracks just across from us. Cleaners were slowly working along the tracks sweeping up the bottles, cups, chip packets and other leftovers from both the passing trains and people on the platforms. Avoiding certain contributions though.

Train late but eventually we hear the call over, first in Hindi and than English. Platform 1. Bugger. We signal our trusty reliable porter currently across the way on Platform 1 who climbs down onto the tracks and crosses to us. Good money obviously. 50rup.

Onto the train and struggle along the tight corridor to the curtained cubicle, our residence for the next 12hrs. Thankfully only two other occupants and both middle bunks folded down. Bikes fit onto the top bunk side by side and secured by the bunks hang chain. Bob in bag under the bottom seat on the floor. Double paned window unfortunately foggy from condensation created between the panes. Settle in with books as no view.

The entertainment then begins with a constant flow of hawkers who must ride the trains back and forth between stations. Pan, masala rice mix, mangoes, water, chips, shoe/bag repair, masseurs, books and coffee / tea. Slightly stranger, beggars - blind or disfigured, transvestites and kids who sweep the floors all drop by chasing donations. It's one thing on the streets where wandering by, but in a carriage no where to go. Run out of coins by about our fifth visitor.

Strike up conversation with the other guy and after a while draw a few more walk bys. Time passes faster especially after lunch which in 3A you pay for. Finally Kolkata but rain is making even the foggiest view from the window even more unclear. The guys give us a hand getting our gear out onto the platform. On the platform for one minute before we attract out first beggar. Thankfully also attract a porter and negotiate a slightly higher rate to get across to the Prepaid taxi stand, which when we make it is closed, at 9.20pm.

Only visible taxi alternative yellow ambassador taxis beaming the 50s - 60s versus 2011. Just starting to rain again so negotiations definitely one sided as try to confirm to an older street lady that we will not contribute. One bike bag on the back seat and the other in the boot with the Bob bag. Sit in the front which gives me a couple of millimeters of head room in the otherwise roomy car. Soph squeezed in the back with the bike bag. Check the age with the driver, but he identifies that there is forced replacement after ten years of use. Still it feels like the original model as we bounce through the traffic, after having been run into by a white police jeep, slightly concerned with the limited visibility a combination of the pouring rain, small disjointed windscreen wipers and low headlights.

Driver finds our pre arranged accommodation at Bodhi Tree in South Kolkata after a couple of street side enquiries. Nice place, part guest house and part art gallery. Settle in and comatose within half an hour of lying on the bed.

Note: On the news an IED was apparently found by police on I think the Friday Guwahati bound Kanchenjunga express. Looked like explosives and shrapnel packed into a stainless steel milk container.

Bit of packing (Wednesday 15 June 2011)

Packing day. Quick trip to the Hong Kong market to buy some fruit and search for some packing materials. Buy some green mangos but actually very ripe and sweet. Also some lychees, beautifully fresh still on the branches on which they grew.

We also found sheets of foam though looking for rolls of aerated foam.
Grab tea at our favorite tea stall on the road.



Before heading back to the hotel to clean the bikes and dismantle the bikes and bob into their bags. Big night finished late, but all ready to go bright and early tomorrow.

Twisted (Tuesday 14 June 2011)

Up before the sun to get to the station and checkin the bikes. Wake the hotel reception duty who is sleeping on the foyer couch. Quite nice given the time and interruption. Short walk along Station Rd with the bikes to the large complex. Quite a few people already floating around both outside and inside but the majority of people inside are asleep on the floor. Some with tickets, some homeless. At the cloak roam check the bikes in and attach their cardboard name plates as required. No hessian as was required for our trip from Potankot to Haridwar. No complaint. Additional 124rup to check the bikes through.

Set up near the bikes to keep an eye on them, whilst adjusting the Bob and bag ready for travel. Sweating profusely as attempt to remove the bike pedals to reduce the temptation to go for a platform spin by the Luggage staff. No issue really, either this time in the morning or this station, not sure. Train arrives on time at 5.05am, though departure time is 5.55am. Quite nice as it should reduce the panic boarding by both passengers and passenger's porters carting loads of luggage. It is amazing how much people take on and stuff into any space available, and that is in the AC carriages. The only Sleeper carriage we have been in was from Potankot to Amritsar and short enough to be novel rather then claustrophobic.

Train is in good condition and not long having moved off we are provided with first newspaper, then water and light refreshments. The berth is 2AC which though obviously Air con also refers to 2 per berth side and four per curtained section, seats basically bunk beds. Sitting opposite us a family on their way to Delhi, who will be on the train for about 28hrs. Armed police patrol past the corridor and even a sniffer dog. Watch the countryside pass after the train has crossed back across the bridge to the northern side of the Brahmaputra. Great to be on the move again, heading back to pick up our gear from Siliguri.

Arrive NJP feeling pretty good. Great weather given the season and running pretty much to schedule. Train arrives on one of the furtherest platforms so we lug the panniers, bob bag and backpacks across the walk over out to the entrance before going in search of the bikes. Locate the cloak room, in the middle station building and display the pickup slip before being taken to a secured depot. Both bikes so start breathing a little easier. Start to roll my bike out and realise pretty quickly that the back wheel is locked up. On closer inspection the back rim has an ugly looking rim buckle.

Back to the Cloak room and point out that the bike has been damaged and one of the three guys behind the counter identifies that it wasn't packed up properly. Upon clarifying that it was not pointed out that they needed to be packed up and that the bikes were transported fine before, he just shrugged. So requested a damaged in transport statement. Apparently available from another department. Frustrated head off towards the department that he has indicated and find instead the station complaints room. Discuss the issue with a younger guy with better english and he clarifies that the guys in the Cloak room are the ones responsible and that there is a specific certificate that should be provided.

Back to the cloak room and state where I have been and what I need and a slightly more polished staff member comes over and asks what the problem is. When I identify what he has already overheard he comes out to inspect the bike. He elaborates that it is not his fault nor mine but the under skilled luggage staff that do not know any better. Further that the certificate will not help resolve the issue for either him or me and that he will pay out of his own pocket for the repairs at a local bike store. Without really thinking I agree to have a look at his bike store so he sets me up with one of his identified "know no better" and part carry - roll the bikes out the front of the station and then to a street side bike repair guy. When he has a look however the guy stuffs around with the gearing not even assessing the rim which very quickly annoys me, so grab the bikes and go to find Soph.

Leave the bikes with Soph after agreeing that regardless the pain in the butt and delay to obtain at least a Certificate. So back to the Complaints office and this time the guy returns with me to the Cloak room. He steps up the request but then leaves on the staff identifying that it is in process. Two hours later the guy who "paid from his own pocket", returns and slowly begins filling in the Damage certificate in triplicate from a large older ledger book.

Back to Soph just as the afternoon storms start. Find a van and head back to the Conclave lodge. Quick meal before calling it a night after a long day and frustrating day.

Belt up (Monday 13 June 2011)

Up early, good night. Hotel KRC was great excluding the recurring door buzzer work past 9pm last night. Nice that they were concerned about us and whether we had had dinner or not, but it reaches a point where some personal space is good, and you have no desire to catch up with the hotel staff again, at least until checkout. Drive across the city to the Bus station where we grab breakfast at an established road side cart that the guys frequent. Great breakfast served by a clean cut looking guy in dark blue business pants, white singlet and thongs. We are both glistening with sweat and it is not yet 8am. A couple of older ladies begging. One very persistent who even comes to the car window and taps. Unfortunately we forgot that we had mangoes, one of which we could have given.

Drive out of town past one of the three army headquarters based in Tezpur and a couple of columns of army trucks. Through larger towns and consistently good tar on NH52. Huge amount of activity going on, around Darang many many carts, cycled and pushed on the way to markets which turn out to be large commercial ones. Commercial in size but totally rural india in style.

Make the outskirts of Guwahati, and the traffic begins early. Niron does his best to skirt it, regardless of edge or oncoming traffic. Pass a large yellow stadium and follow the rail line toward the bridge across the Brahmaputra that we cycled across nearly a month ago. Niron still struggling through a hangover as he beeps and swerves through the traffic which is still as heavy as it has been for the past 100km. Drop the bags at the Lodge before heading out for lunch at Parampara above Paradise restaurant where we have Assamese Thali and Chicken cooked in Bamboo. Very very tasty.

Back to the Jungle Tours India office and say goodbye to the guys before dropping by the Train station to confirm checkin requirements for the bikes tomorrow. Groan when they amend the recommendation from two to three hours before departure making it 2.55am tomorrow morning. Ahhh.

Last coffees in Guwahati at Cafe Coffee Day before Naga pork at Delight. Back to the hotel for prep before early morning.

Two seasons in one day (Sunday 12 June 2011)

I know I was thinking of going to morning puja, but I definitely had no plan for it to come to us at 3.45am. Sleep is more tempting at this hour so go back to sleep waking at 5am and it is all still happening, 6am and we decide we might as well go down and have a look at what we are listening to. Down the Main Bazaar street of Bomdila to the Gompa where the sound is nearly deafening, speakers up on the roof of the prayer hall and a large amplifier on the foyer. It is quite non Buddhist. The paintings in the foyer of the Prayer Hall make up for the noise, fantastic figures including a horse that has wild eyes. I think some of them rate as my favorite from throughout India and Nepal.

Still great weather, a little light spitting but otherwise sunny. Cool in the mountains though and we all have fleece jumpers on. Follow a couple of Army trucks out of town before being able to pass on narrow roads. Only a few road crews out today busting rocks as Sunday and most people appear to be taking a day off or starting later. Stop in for quick chai after crossing the Nechiphu pass and catch up again with Dawa, part owner and Nepali by birth, also Buddhist so we have a look at the "Wheel of Life" Thanka I picked up in Tawang.


Following chai we continue downhill back to the river which is now moving swiftly toward the plains.

From Arunachal Pradesh, India. May-June 2011

Pass the various army encampments as we move our way south, hit a few sloppy sections but more from spring fed mud versus the light rain which has now stopped. The Sumo swivels from side to side as Niron aggressively swings the wheels to try and maintain traction and forward movement. Into Balukpong and following lunch at Hotel Tashi Yangtse sign out of Arunachal at the police check post.

The plains feel suprisingly stimulating after the grandeur of the mountains. Fluffy clouds, white and grey, sit over the fields and jungle giving a feeling of calm tension. The road across the next section of road works, shaken not stirred. So glad to see the tar even if it was only a demo section before hitting the next section of sandy dirt. Scenic mud rendered houses with thatched roofs, not as heavy as those we saw on the Terai and without the red colored lower section. So much road work going on. The piles of river rocks which are tendered for to be smashed using sledge hammers into road base size. According to the guys one pile (one truck trailer load) will take three people about two solid days work for which they will receive about 3000 INR.

Enter Tezpur also called the city of blood, which sounds pretty dramatic for relatively standard looking outskirts. Niron does put on his seatbelt on the edge of town though. No seat belts in the back, guess if the worst occur we hope we go under versus over the front seats. Thankfully, though the winding and twisting along the good road did occur, we made the hotel with no issue bar the sporadic use of horn. Hotel KRC not so flash name but the foyer is finished well and the staff professional. One of the guys accompanies up to our room in the scary lift carrying our pannier bags. Once in the room loiters for ever.

After dropping the bags off we drove across towards the Brahmaputra and the reason for the heavy tag for the city. Enter the Agnigarh Hill park which is believed to be the Fortress of Fire from Hindi mythology. The story goes that a Demon king by the name of Banasura had a daughter called Usha who dreamt of her love but her father was a rock on the protective side and to safeguard her he secured her in a Fortress of Fire. The dream lover however became reality in the form of Aniruddha a prince. (and also the grandson of Lord Krishna) The two lovers secretly married which enraged Banasura and lead to a war between the Hari and the Hare (as a rule apparently exists that gods cannot battle directly). This battle turned particularly ugly, hence the "city of blood". The park has a great view but is a touch kitch.



From the hill we drove back towards town and another large park, Chitralekha Udyan, this one with archeological remnants believed to be from the Gupta period (roughly 10th century) sourced from private properties and random sites from around Tezpur. Sun setting and mangos dropping from the trees in the park we wander around. Some great sandstone carvings and huge.

Off to the market where we leave the guys and go fruit shopping before finding our way via a circuitous route back to the hotel. In the room set up our washing and overlook the annoying and recurring habit of hotel staff in this part of the world to attempt to be overly helpful, but which turns some times into interruptions of your time. Hopefully good nights sleep before final day tomorrow and returning to Guwahati.